The Genii Locorum of Saihoji
（Second Part）
Yanase Hiroichi

The ancient Romans believed that all locations were inhabited by genii locorum —the protective spirits of places. The multilayered nature of time is a key concept for understanding the history of Saihoji. As we look back over the centuries, we find that through the layered tapestry of their activities, the human guardians of Saihoji through the ages can aptly be described as its genii locorum.

Under the theme of the multilayered nature of time, Professor Yanase gave a lecture on the development of the area around Saihoji from the vantage point of the river basin. In the first part, he described the relationship between the location of Saihoji and the development of the surrounding area. In this second part, he will consider important perspectives for passing on Saihoji to future generations in light of changes in the natural environment. (Click here for the first part)

Yanase Hiroichi
Professor, Institute of Science Tokyo (Media Studies). Born in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka Prefecture in 1964, Professor Yanase is known for offering sharp insights regarding social, environmental, and cultural changes. Alongside his teaching work, he has published numerous books, including the bestseller Kokudō Jūroku Gōsen: Nihon wo Tsukutta Michi (National Route 16: The Road That Built Japan) (Shinchōsha) and Kawasemi Toshi Tokyo (Maboroshi no Tori wa Naze Kokyujutakugai de Kurasunoka) (Kingfisher City Tokyo: Why This Fabled Fowl Chooses to Live Near Luxury Housing) (Heibonsha).

Looking to the Future in Terms of River Basins

I believe that the future of Saihoji will depend on the flood damage that will come to the surrounding area. Simply put, a river basin is an area where water converges and flows into a single river. In fact, river basins are the most important factor to consider when thinking about daily life and flood control. If mountains and forests upstream are not properly managed, heavy rains in the upper reaches of the Saihoji River can raise the risk of landslides. Farther downstream, the area around Saihoji and the alluvial fan may also be at risk of flooding.

If no countermeasures are taken, landslides can cause serious damage to residential areas. Every year, from the rainy season in the summer to the typhoon season in the fall, landslides occur in small river basins throughout Japan, causing major damage to towns downstream.

When considering flood control, nature conservation, and people’s lives, it is extremely important to look at the landscape in terms of the river basins. In order to protect Saihoji from flooding, it is critical to take into account the total surrounding area and the natural conditions of the river upstream.

Challenges Posed by the Changing Forest Environment

Changes in vegetation in the upper reaches can alter the amount of water and sediment flowing downstream. A major issue currently facing river basins in Japan is the abundance and depth of greenery. If we compare the forests surrounding the Saihoji river basin today and in the past, the forests are thicker now than in previous decades. For example, when seen from above, the forest is obviously thicker in 2008 than it was in 1961, when there were far fewer trees and the ground was visible. Going back even further to 1948, there are even fewer trees.

Common wisdom might hold that the further you go back in time, the more forests and abundant greenery you will find, but this is actually a misconception. People in the past used to cut down trees for firewood and timber, leaving the forests sparse, so that plenty of sunlight could reach the ground. However, ever since the energy revolution of the 1960s, charcoal and firewood forest management has ceased in many areas, resulting in today’s thick, tall forests.

Saihoji’s natural surroundings have also changed significantly. The forests today contain many cedar and cypress trees, but these were only planted 40 to 50 years ago. Before that, most of the trees were pines. This change can be observed nationwide. Cedar and cypress trees have largely replaced the pine trees, large swathes of which were destroyed by pine wilt disease.

Pine trees thrive in dry, rugged mountains with lots of sunshine. Today, such environments only remain on the coast. Unlike most trees, pines can tolerate seawater, and in the past, many areas were deforested, leaving the ground exposed. If one looks at the ukiyo-e prints in the Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido series, there is a picture showing pine trees growing sparsely on a bare mountainside along the coast. The scene was not merely taken from the artist's imagination. The landscape at the time actually looked like that.

In recent years, some evergreens and conifers have grown too thick in the mountains, blocking the sunlight from reaching the ground. This prevents undergrowth from growing, gradually eroding the soil around the tree roots and causing fallen trees to accumulate in the valley, forming dams. Once a certain volume of water has built up, these dams burst, producing landslides. In other words, the state of the upstream area affects the future of the downstream area. Saihoji is located at the mouth of a small river basin, where the Saihoji River flows down from the mountains into a alluvial fan. In order to preserve the exquisite landscape of Saihoji, created by nature and human hands, for future generations, it is essential to manage not only the temple grounds but also the natural environment of the entire river basin.

Due to the anti-Buddhist movement of the Meiji Era (1868–1912) and the postwar agricultural land reform, temple land holdings have been greatly reduced in many areas, making it physically impossible for temples to maintain and manage entire regions on their own. That is why I believe it is so important to manage Saihoji with the support of local authorities such as Kyoto Prefecture and Kyoto City so that the temple can be passed down to future generations.

Preserving the Innate Beauty of the Place for Future Generations

One of the distinguishing features of Japan's topography, in my opinion, is that it consists mainly of steep mountains that come right up to the sea, with very little flat land. After passing through mountains and valleys, you immediately come to the sea. Each area is lined with small river basins. Japan experiences frequent floods, but at the same time, its terrain creates landscapes admired by people around the world.

When you look at mega mansions from around the world on Instagram, you will find that they are all built on high ground accentuated by steep changes in elevation. They are surrounded by greenery, with rivers running below and connecting to larger bodies of water, such as larger rivers, seas, and lakes. Whether due to culture or something innate, people seem to be drawn to scenes like these.

Saihoji is also located in a place with significant height differentials. Surrounded by greenery, it is blessed with spring water and a flowing river. Farther down is a larger river. Such landscapes are becoming rare within Japan. I stated earlier that Japan is blessed with small river basins, but there are also areas where urbanization is encroaching on nature. In central Tokyo, for example, most of the sources of springs have been channeled into underground culverts.

Saihoji—and Kyoto generally—is a rare place where one can enjoy views of a river basin set against a backdrop of rich, natural beauty. There is a difference between knowing and not knowing that this is the kind of scenery that people desire most. It is precisely because we know what kind of landscape we should leave behind for the future that we can take a proper perspective to preserve Saihoji for coming generations.

Edited by: MIYAUCHI Toshiki
Written by: FUKUDA Anna
Photographed by: Saihoji
*These photos were with permission.